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Pivot Point Cosmetology Fundamentals Chapter 12 Texture
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Pivot Point Cosmetology Fundamentals Chapter 12 Texture
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Pivot Point Cosmetology FundamentalsChapter 12: Texture
1:20 Test - ANSWER-Place 20 strands of hair in a mixture of 1 oz of 20 volume
peroxide and 20 drops of 28% ammonia in a glass bowl. Immerse for 30 minutes.
1:20 Test - ANSWER-Test for products containing metallic salts. Mix 1 oz of 20vol
peroxide and 20 drops of 28% ammonia in a glass bowl. Remove 20 strands of hair and
place in bowl. If strands lighten slightly, no metallic salts are present. If hair lightens
quickly, hair contains lead. If no reaction after 30 minutes, hair contains silver. If solution
begins to boil, giving off an unpleasant odor and if hair degrades and pulls apart easily,
hair contains copper.
2 Main Ingredients in Relaxers - ANSWER-Sodium hydroxide, ammonium thioglycolate
2 Types of Wraps - ANSWER-Overlap (croquignole) and spiral
3 Principle Relaxer Ingredients - ANSWER-Active alkaline agent, oil, and water.
AKA Chemical Blowout - ANSWER-Curl diffusion
Ammonium Thioglycolate - ANSWER-8.5-9.5. Causes hair to soften and swell
Ammonium Thioglycolate Relaxer Strengths - ANSWER-Mild, Regular, Super
Away from the Base Perming - ANSWER-Adding texture anywhere along the hair
strand except at the base
Base Control - ANSWER-Size of the base in relation to the diameter of the tool and the
position of the tool in relation to the base
Base Perming - ANSWER-Adding texture only at the base of the hair strand
Base Relaxers - ANSWER-Lye, Sodium, or Sodium Hydroxide relaxer.
Benefits of Low/No Thio Perms - ANSWER-Deeper penetration of solution, more
consistent curls with less dilation of cuticle layer, and the ability to reform up to 60%
more bonds during neutralization. Available to those who have an allergic reaction to
thioglycolic acid.
Bonds Altered During a Relaxer - ANSWER-Sulfur and Hydrogen
, Bookend Technique - ANSWER-End paper folded in half horizontally. Generally used to
control sections of hair when shorter tool length is selected or to wrap sections of very
short hair
Chemical Phase of Perming - ANSWER-Processing (applying perm solution; timing and
testing; rinsing; and blotting) and neutralizing (applying neutralizer, rinsing, and
removing perm tools).
Chemical Phase of Relaxing - ANSWER-Sectioning hair and applying relaxer product
Common Ingredients of Sodium, No-Lye, and Thio Relaxer Formulas - ANSWER-Active
alkaline agent, oil, and water
Compression Bases - ANSWER-Larger than 2x and the perm tool is positioned within
the base
Curl Diffusion - ANSWER-Aka chemical blowout. Technique for loosening or relaxing
tightly curled hair by 50% of its natural shape
Cushion Technique - ANSWER-Uses several end papers to provide cushioning and
support to fragile hair and control shorter lengths within the hair section
Double-paper (double-flat) Technique - ANSWER-Two end papers, one on top of the
strand and one on the bottom. Most common end paper technique
End Papers - ANSWER-Porous papers used to control the ends of the hair and keep
the hair smoothly wrapped around the perm tool
Endothermic Perm - ANSWER-Requires an outside heat source. Acid perms generally
fall under this category
Exothermic Perm - ANSWER-Produces its own heat. Alkaline perms generally fall under
this category.
How much growth is recommended for a relaxer retouch service? - ANSWER-3-4" or 8
months new growth.
In the thermal reconditioning, hair is dried until at least ___% of the moisture has been
removed. - ANSWER-80
Main Ingredient in Acid Perms - ANSWER-Glycerol Monothioglycolic acid
Main Ingredient in Alkaline Perms - ANSWER-Ammonium Thioglycolic acid
Main Ingredient in Curl Rearrangers - ANSWER-Ammonium thioglycolate
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