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Marine Science Exam 3 Questions and Answers
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Marine Science Exam 3 Questions and Answers
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Marine Science Exam 3 Questions andAnswers
Speed of Deep Water Wave - Answer -S (in meters per second) = 2.26√L(in meters)
Disturbing Force - Answer -The energy that causes ocean waves to form
Ocean Waves - Answer -Along an air-water interface, the movement of air across the
ocean surface creates ocean waves
Atmospheric Waves - Answer -Along an air-air interface, the movement of different air
masses creates atmospheric waves, which are often represented by ripplelike clouds in
the sky. Especially common when cold fronts (high density air) move into an area.
Internal Waves - Answer -Along a water-water interface, the movement of water of
different densities creates internal waves. Travel along the boundary between waters of
different density, they are associated with a pycnocline. Much larger than surface
waves, heights exceeding 100 meters.
Pycnocline - Answer -A layer of rapidly changing density
Splash Waves - Answer -Mass movement into the ocean, such as coastal landslides or
large icebergs that fall into the ocean create waves
Seismic Sea Waves/Tsunami - Answer -Uplift or down drop of large areas of the sea
floor, which can release large amounts of energy to the entire water column
Longitudinal Waves (Push-Pull Waves) - Answer -The particles that vibrate in the same
direction that the energy is traveling, like a spring whose coils are alternately
compressed and expanded. The shape of the wave moves through the medium by
compressing and decompressing as it goes.
Transverse Waves (Side to Side) - Answer -Energy travels at right angles to the
direction of the vibrating particles. Generally only transmit energy through solids.
Orbital Waves - Answer -Involves components of both longitudinal and transverse
waves, so the particles move in circular orbits. Transmit energy through the upper part
of the ocean near the interface between the atmosphere and the ocean.
, Wave Steepness - Answer -Wave Steepness = Wave height (H)/ Wavelength (L). If
wave steepness exceeds 1/7, the wave breaks
Frequency (f) - Answer -Frequency (f) = 1/Period (T)
Wave Period - Answer -The time it takes one full wave- one wavelength- to pass a fixed
position. Typically between six and sixteen seconds.
Wave Base - Answer -Depth below the surface when the circular orbit becomes so
small it is negligible. Equal to one half the wavelength (L/2) measured from still water
level. The longer the wave, the deeper the wave base.
Deep Water Waves - Answer -When the water depth (d) is greater than the wave base
(L/2). Have no interference with the ocean bottom so they include all wind generated
waves in the open ocean where water depth far exceeds wave base.
Wave Speed - Answer -Wave Speed (S) = Wavelength (L) / Period (T). Known as
celerity (C).
Deep Water Wave Speed - Answer -S(in meters per second) = 1.25√L(in meters)
S(in meters per second) = 5.12 X T
Shallow Water Waves - Answer -Waves in which depth (d) is less than 1/20 of the
wavelength (1/20)
Speed of a shallow water wave - Answer -S(in meters per second) = 3.13 √d(in meters)
Transitional Waves - Answer -Waves have some characteristics of shallow water waves
and some characteristics of deep water waves. Wavelengths are between 2 and 20
times the water depth
Capillary Waves (ripples) - Answer -Small, rounded waves with V shaped troughs and
wavelengths less than 1.74 centimeters
Gravity Waves - Answer -The water catches more of the wind and ocesan surface
interacts more efficienty. More energy is transferred to th eocean. Wavelengths
exceeding 1.74 centimeters. Length is generally 15 to 35 times their height.
Sea area - Answer -Area where wind driven waves are
Swell - Answer -When wind speeds diminish and the waves eventually move faster than
the wind. Wave steepness decreases and waves become long crested waves.
Symmetrical, traveled out of area of origination, move with little loss of energy and over
large stretces
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