A buoy is anchored to the ocean floor. A large wave approaches the buoy. How
will the buoy move as the wave goes by?
I think the buoy doesn’t move but rather goes through it because it is anchored
to the ocean floor.
2. The two images show side views of ocean waves. How are the two sets of wa...
Prior Knowledge Questions (Do these BEFORE using the Gizmo.)
1. A buoy is anchored to the ocean floor. A large wave approaches the buoy. How
will the buoy move as the wave goes by?
I think the buoy doesn’t move but rather goes through it because it is anchored
to the ocean floor.
2. The two images show side views of ocean waves. How are the two sets of waves different?
The two sets of waves look different because of
their crests, wavelengths, troughs, amplitudes,
and the resting point.
Gizmo Warm-up
Ocean swells are an example of waves. In the Waves Gizmo, you will observe
wave motion on a model of a spring. The hand can move the spring up and
down or back and forth.
To begin, check that the Type of wave is Transverse, Amplitude is 20.0 cm, Frequency is 0.75 Hz, Tension
is 3.0 N, and Density is 1.0 kg/m. (Note: In this Gizmo, “density” refers to the linear mass density, or mass
per unit length. It is measured in units of kilograms per meter.)
1. Click Play ( ). How would you describe the motion of a transverse wave? Click Pause ( ). Notice the
crests (high points) and troughs (low points) of the wave.
The motion of a transverse wave is that the spring is moving up and down. Both the crests
and troughs are the same.
, 2. Click Reset ( ). Choose the Longitudinal wave and increase the Amplitude to 20.0 cm. Click Play.
How would you describe the motion of a longitudinal wave? Click Pause. Notice the compressions in the
wave where the coils of the spring model are close together and the rarefactions where the coils are
spread apart.
The motion of a longitudinal wave is moving back and forth, as the wave moves left to right,
making rarefactions and compressions.
Get the Gizmo ready:
Activity A:
● Click Reset. Select Transverse waves.
Measuring waves ● Set Amplitude to 20.0 cm, Frequency to 1.0 Hz,
Tension to 2.0 N, and Density to 2.0 kg/m.
Question: How do we measure and describe waves?
1. Observe: Click Play. Observe the motions of the hand and of the green dot in the middle.
A. What is the motion of the hand? The motion of the hand is transferring
energy by moving the hand up and
down.
B. Turn off the Lights on the checkbox and The motion of the green dot is moving
observe the green dot. What is the motion of up and down in a straight line.
the green dot?
C. Follow the motion of a single crest of the The crest is moving from left to right.
wave. How does the crest move?
In a transverse wave, the motion of the medium (what the wave moves through—in this case, the spring)
is perpendicular to the direction of the wave. So, each point of the spring moves up and down as the wave
travels from left to right.
2. Measure: With the lights on, click Pause. Turn on Show rulers.
A. Use the horizontal ruler to measure the horizontal distance 100 cm.
between two crests. What is this distance?
This is the wavelength of the wave.
B. What is the distance between the two troughs? Also, 100 cm.
The wavelength can be found by measuring the distance between two successive crests, two
successive troughs, or any two equivalent points on the wave.
C. Click Reset. Set the Density to 1.0 kg/m. Click Play, and then 140 cm.
Pause. What is the wavelength of this wave?
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